If you've ever had a filling or a root canal done, you'll know the feeling I'm talking about. The tingling of your mouth and tongue as the anaesthetic wears off and your mouth feels as if it doesn't belong on your face. Well, if you want that feeling without the whopping dental bill, you should probably try out the crispy squid with chilli, lime, coriander, Sriracha aioli at The Paper Mill in Apsley. I have never tasted or felt the overwhelming result of a hellavalot of Szechuan pepper until now, but I can already tell you...I never want it again.
But lets 'take it back now yo'.......The Paper Mill in Apsley is so called because it stands on/near the site of the UK's oldest paper mill; Frogmore Mill (which still runs as a papermill to this day, and has a great visitors centre should you fancy a visit for a bitta culture.)
The Paper Mill pub is a Fullers pub, founded in 2005 and is a beloved favourite amongst locals. Inside is airy, light, modern yet comforting and very welcoming. The menu is incredibly varied and relevant without straying too far from traditional, comforting pub grub. Although there are a few slightly "out there" options like tempura spring onions and the questionnably named "buffalomi fries" (which i assume are like buffalo wings but actually halloumi fries?) There's great vegetarian and vegan options, and some fair options for various allergy requirements. What's also a bit snazzy is that you can filter their menu to see the dishes that are safe or suitable for your dietary requirements. That's cool!
We went for the aforementioned crispy squid to share and then I ordered the Norfolk chicken schnitzel with Caesar salad, anchovies & parmesan and J had the fried buttermilk chicken burger with bacon jam, red onions, tomato, lettuce, Sriracha aioli and triple cooked chips. Everything is ordered via QR code from your table to ensure as much social distancing as possible. It works out very handy!
Service was swift and our squid was brought to the table within about 10 minutes. Unfortunately as mentioned in the intro, we couldn't finish it due to the ferocity of the Szechuan pepper. I'm uncertain if the chefs tasted this batch, but if they did, it makes me question their taste buds! Worth noting too that the Sriracha mayonnaise was "artily" blobbed onto the serving plate in an attempt to tart up this pub classic into a seemingly gastronomic pièce de résistance. Awkwardly, it didn't work terribly well.
Luckily the rest of the meal was much more pleasant. The Caesar salad was crisp, fresh and zingy, with salty anchovies and a crisp, moist chicken schnitzel on top. And the burger was well cooked, with smokey bacon jam oozing with every bite and a gentle heat from the Sriracha. We also shared some seriously DELICIOUS sweet potato fries which were salty, crispy and soft in the centre in just the right way! I could have eaten a great many of these, and if i ever go back I may just eat these in place of all other food!
On the whole, we felt that this was a good meal with an exciting menu, offering plenty of choice. THe food was decent, and apart from the squid, we would be happy to go back as it's a lovely wander along the canal for a decent meal in a pleasant setting.
Service:
ordering on your phone is easy, simple and super efficient if you need to split the bill. The food comes out quickly too. And, because you've already paid on your phone, you can just get up and go when you're finished. How very Nandos!
Quality:
Fair. Nothing there will set your world alight but it was all cooked well and seemed fresh.
Value/ Price:
We spent about £80 for 4 of us including starters and drinks. so at £20 a head its not super expensive, and seems about right for a middle of the road brewers gastro pub.
Overall:
GOOD. The Paper Mill is a decent pub for a midweek meal with an exciting menu that -on the whole- delivers to ensure a lovely experience.